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Stylish, meticulous, affable surfer and surfboard shaper from Hawaii; a top member of the Dewey Weber Surfboards design and production team from ’64 to ’71. Ige was born (1941) in Lahaina, Maui, moved with his family at age four to Oahu, started surfing at age nine in Waikiki, and began shaping boards two years later. In the early ’60s, not long after graduating from high school, Ige moved to Southern California and wo... Read More
Churning area just shoreward from where the wave folds and breaks; almost always the most dangerous place at any surf spot, and the site where virtually all surf-related injuries and deaths occur. The phrase “impact zone” generally isn’t used until the surf is at least medium sized. The impact zone at any given spot can change in size and intensity from day to day or even wave to wave. It can be measured in acres (Hawa... Read More
Lushly photographed but critically flayed 1998 TriStar big-wave drama, directed by erotica specialist Zalman King (9 1/2 Weeks), starring California surf journalist Matt George (who also cowrote the script) as an aging surf hero and defender of wave-riding purity; world tour pro Shane Dorian as the young big-wave ace; and surfer-actor Matty Liu as their teenaged sidekick. 1977 world champion Shaun Tomson costars. Big-wave surfers Bria... Read More
Democratically-structured surf website, with articles generated by scores of unpaid contributors across the globe; launched in 2010 by founders Zach Weisberg and Ross Pfahler, former colleagues at the Action Sports Group media company. Billing itself as “surfing’s definitive online community̶... Read More
Innovative and semi-controversial surf website in which individual surfers produce their own short video segments and submit them for judging to the viewing public, with the winner taking home a $100,000 prize. The  top vote-getting sections are then stitched together into a Steele-distributed feature length DVD.  Touted as “surfing’s own YouTube with a dash of American Idol,” Innersection launched in 2010 as a col... Read More
The world professional surfing tour’s original governing body, created in 1976 by Fred Hemmings and Randy Rarick, both of Hawaii. An informal circuit of pro contests in Hawaii, Australia, and South Africa—sometimes called the “gypsy tour”—had taken shape by 1975; because the events weren’t linked together, however, there was no year-end champion and not much uniformity from contest to contest. In 1969, big-wave pion... Read More
The internet—a noncentralized computer network invented by the U.S. Defense Department in the 1960s; now available to PCs, tablets, and smart phones—became part of the surfing world in the mid-’90s, when wired American surfers began accessing websites like the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration as an aid to wave forecasting. Carlsbad bodysurfer and computer programmer Ron Brivitch set up a video camera in a friend’... Read More
Showstopping regularfoot pro from Hanalei, Kauai; winner of three straight world championships (2002-2004), a four-time Triple Crown winner (2002-2003, 2005-2006), and the only surfer with the style and firepower to outperform Kelly Slater during Slater’s prime. Irons death in 2010 from a drug-related heart attack shocked the surf world and made international headlines. Andy Irons was born (1978) in Lihue, Kauai, the son of Califo... Read More
Prodigiously talented regularfooter from Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii; world-ranked #9 in 2005; winner of the 2001 Pipeline Masters and the 2004 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big-wave contest at Waimea Bay; the proudly dissolute younger brother of three-time world champion Andy Irons. Bruce Irons was born (1979) in Lihue, Kauai, a three-and-a-half-pound preemie, the son of a California-raised surfer-carpenter and nephew to 1964 United S... Read More
A longboard-only variation on the pullout, in which the rider, crouched on the front third of the board, pushes the nose section underwater, swings the tail around toward shore, stalls, and lets the wave pass by. The island pullout is almost always done in small surf. Probably developed in Waikiki in the 1920s or ’30s—”island” refers to the Hawaiian Islands. California’s Tommy Zahn is remembered as the first Ma... Read More

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