nn


Dynamic beachbreak located in the northeast suburbs of Sydney, New South Wales, Australia; home to the area’s most consistent surf and a hotbed for talented, aggresive, creative, insanely competitive wave-riders. “It is possible that more surfers have learned to pull vertical off-the-lips here than at any other surf spot in the world,” surf writer Nick Carroll noted. “It is probable that no single group of surfers has e... Read More
Multifaceted surfer and surf entrepreneur from Durban, South Africa; finalist in the 1976 Pipeline Masters, the same year he co-founded Zigzag surf magazine; longtime CEO of Billabong USA. Naude was born (1955) and raised in Durban, and began surfing at age 10. He won the 1975 Smirnoff Amateur at Sunset Beach, Hawaii, became South African national champion the following year, then spent three relatively unsuccessful years on t... Read More
Easygoing surfer and surf journalist from Laguna Beach, California; coauthor, along with Craig Peterson, of a series of popular Surfer magazine travel articles in the 1970s and ’80s. Naughton was born (1953) in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, the son of a psychiatrist, moved with his family in 1959 to Long Beach, California, and began surfing at age 11. After high school, Naughton traveled north to Oregon and Washington, then... Read More
Controversy-generating sand-bottomed big-wave spot located in the middle of Portugal’s swell-lashed Atlantic coast, 75 miles north of Lisbon; named for the adjacent fishing-resort town of Nazaré. As of mid-2014, the break was the site of what are thought to be the four largest waves ever ridden. Winter swells aimed at Nazaré are turbocharged after sweeping through an offshore canyon that runs as deep as 16,000 feet. (For com... Read More
Flash-in-the-pan regularfooter from Hawaii, nicknamed “Wildman” and the “Surfing Daredevil,” who made news in 1973 when he announced his intention to ride a 40-foot wave at Kaena Point, the unconquered big-wave break on the western tip of Oahu. Neece was born (1952) in San Pedro, California, began surfing at age 11, and moved to Hawaii in 1968, where he began riding big waves. He confidence shot up in early 1972, afte... Read More
Sociable first-generation pro surfer and tuberiding virtuoso from Queensland, Australia; Bells Beach winner in 1971, as well as that year’s Australian National Titles; long-time surf retail magnate. Neilsen was born (1951) and raised on Queensland’s Gold Coast, the son of the first full-time lifeguard in the resort area of Surfer’s Paradise. Neilsen’s debut surfing experience went badly. The 10-year-old, along with olde... Read More
Baby-faced goofyfoot surfer from San Clemente, California; winner of the Makaha International in 1962, 1963, and 1965, and runner-up in the 1965 World Surfing Championships. Nelson was born (1947) and raised in San Clemente, and got her first surfboard at age 12. Three years later, while living in Honolulu for eight months with her family, she placed third in the Makaha contest; the following year, at age 16, she won at Makaha and plac... Read More
Dynamic Australian surf filmmaker; best known for his 2009 mega-hit Modern Collective, a game-changing take on 21st century aerial-based high performance surfing. Neville, described by journalist  Travis Ferre as “the Guy Ritchie of surfing,” specializes in clean, brightly shot footage, enjoys playing with foreground and background imagery, has a keen ear for obscure hard-rocking soundtrack cuts, and can throw shots at t... Read More
Loosely affiliated group of high-performance surfers led by Kelly Slater, who began asserting themselves, while still teenagers, in the early 1990s. New School surfers rode thin, narrow, heavily-rockered boards; concentrated on aerial and tail-slide moves; preferred short, hollow, quick waves (making Pipeline-Backdoor, rather than Sunset Beach, the hot spot on the North Shore), and were featured in rough-edged videos like Taylor Steele’... Read More
Eclectic, high-profile surf film showcase held each September in New York City. The New York Surf Film Festival was founded by New York surfers Morgan Rae Berk, Tyler Breuer, Adam Cannizzaro, and Michael Machemar. In 2008 the group held their inaugural event in Tribeca, and attracted more than 2,500 moviegoers. Twenty-five films were shown, including a special 30th anniversary presentation of Big Wednesday, complete with a personal a... Read More
Wealthy and crowded Southern California beach city, featuring six miles of west- southwest-facing coastline, located in Orange County, just south of Huntington Beach. “Newport,” as surf writer Zach Weisberg noted in 2009, “is an American Surf Mecca, laden with history and character, writhing to the pulse of an ever-changing surf industry.” From north to south, Newport’s main surfing areas are: Santa Ana Riv... Read More
Eugene Burdick’s gloomy 1956 novel follows the young adult years of Mike Freesmith, a teenage surfer from Southern California who turns into a venal and murderous political power broker. In the book’s first chapter, high school senior Freesmith is dropped off at the local surf break by Miss Bell, his English teacher and lover. Hank Moore, Freesmith’s devoted friend, is already in the water, patiently waiting for “the ni... Read More
Boorish but charismatic big-wave rider originally from Manhattan Beach, California; one of the original Waimea Bay chargers; founder of Greg Noll Surfboards. Noll was born Greg Lawhead (1937) in San Diego, California, moved to Manhattan Beach at age six with his just-divorced mother, and changed his name when she married chemical engineer Ash Noll. He began surfing at age 10, and by the early ’50s was one of the Los Angeles area’s ... Read More
Enchanting set of tropical right-breaking Australian point waves located inside Noosa Heads National Park, 150 miles north of Brisbane, on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. “Noosa” is a local Aboriginal word meaning “a place of shade.” The coast here faces almost due north. From west to east, Noosa’s five breaks are as follows: Main Beach (or First Point) and Johnson’s, a pair of sheltered small-wave... Read More
World-renowned stretch of Hawaiian coastline located on the north side of Oahu; the undisputed capital of big-wave surfing from the 1950s to the early ’90s; home to about 40 surf breaks, many of them hallowed. “If the surfing world has a shared mythology,” American essayist William Finnegan wrote in 1997, “then the North Shore of Oahu is its Olympus.” The North Shore’s thin coastal plain is backed by ... Read More
Surfing maneuver in which the rider moves to the front of the board and assumes one of a half-dozen or so positions. As described by California surf journalist Bill Cleary in 1965, noseriding is “a sport within a sport.” It can be an act of transcendent elegance and subtlety, and is most often performed in small waves while riding a longboard. The exact origins of noseriding are unknown. Hawaii’s Rabbit Kekai is somet... Read More
Invincible kneeboarder during the early and mid-’80s from Narrabeen, Australia; winner of the World Amateur Surfing Championships in 1982, 1984, and 1986. Novakov was born (1961) in Manly Beach, raised in Sydney, and began surfing in 1975. He became the New South Wales kneeboard champion in 1981—and was the first kneerider to use a tri-fin board—then went on to win dozens of regional, state, and national titles over the next eight y... Read More
Surfing developed across Polynesia as a nude activity, and remained so until top-coated 19th-century missionaries shamed the natives into covering themselves, even while at play in the ocean. The dress code was often ignored; a British engraving from 1874 shows a set of waves being ridden by nearly a dozen Hawaiian surfers, male and female, all of them naked. No other sport lends itself to nudity as easily as surfing; clothes shedding i... Read More
Quintessentially smooth goofyfoot surfer from Southern California; best known as a noserider, but regarded by many as the finest surfer of the 1960s; winner of the United States Surfing Championships in 1968 and 1971, and runner-up in the 1972 World Surfing Championships. Nuuhiwa was born (1948) in Honolulu, Hawaii, the son of a Waikiki beachboy and martial arts instructor, and began surfing at age five, one year after his mother died. ... Read More

nn