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3/24/17

Buzzy Trent Week is coming to an end—but we’ve saved the best for last! Click forth for a Trent remix built from the ground up with A-grade Bud Browne film stock. Browne, the sainted Father of the Surf Movie, was the only guy to capture Trent in full charismatic glory, and oh just feast your eyes—Buzzy rubbing those cobblestone abs, skipping rope, holding court, raving about Point Surf Makaha, charging the biggest waves of 1958. You’ve heard my take on Trent, and read Buzzy’s interview. But to take full measure of the man you need to see him in motion, in color, with sound. You need Bud Browne.

Special thanks to Anna Trent-Moore, Buzzy’s daughter and executor of the Bud Browne estate, for making this video happen. Having Browne’s work featured on Encyclopedia of Surfing is a thrill and an honor. Thank you Anna!

  • Bob Feigel

    Had to laugh out loud at Buzzy’s last comment. Not that I ever rode the massively big waves that Buzzy and Co did, but I thought I might one day. So I asked Peter Cole for some advice. On the preparation side he told me to build up my lung power and suggested a few ways to do it. I took his advice and even at my current age (75) I still benefit from having good lungs.

    His advice was to start swimming underwater while holding my breath and increasing the length (and time) steadily. That was in a pool like the one I did my initial lifeguard training at the Lincoln Jr High pool.

    The other advice I followed was at a surfing spot where currents and lack of visibility would be a factor. The idea was to swim out and dive down in at a place like Latigo or County Line in Malibu and hold onto a rock as long as possible before heading for the surface. But the advice that saved my life more than once in big surf was so simple, yet so hard to put into practice when the time came.

    He told me the most valuable thing to remember was not to panic. That when I wiped out on a big wave or caught inside on a big set I’d probably become disoriented under water and lose my bearings. If I panicked, I might swim down to the bottom or sideways thinking I was heading to the surface and run out of breath in the process.

    He said that if I remembered only one thing that was it and told me to “relax, get your bearings and head towards the light.” What he didn’t tell me was to enjoy it! So I had to laugh because the two times I had to use that advice I only enjoyed it once I got to the beach and onto dry sand.

    • Matt Warshaw

      I’d add one thing. Re-direct yourself to the shore. In other words, instead of thinking that safety is out past the waves (which it is, but you’re not going to get there), put your thoughts on the shoreline. Once I began doing this, in my 30s, it made wipeouts and getting caught inside a lot less frantic. The gig was up, for the moment, so get to the beach, regroup. Try again or quit for the day. But give up on returning to the lineup for awhile.

  • freerider

    Have to remember–‘no leashes’ back then–just you and the wave. “Don’t panic, just lay on the bottom and enjoy it”–classic–he knew it was the best way to conserve oxygen…..

    • freerider

      Buzzy and bros were living in quonset huts and eating meals out of a can.What’s happened to the surf world? Surf lessons–leashes, kook cords–soft tops –go pros–pampered bed and breakfast surf resorts where they meet you at the airport and drive you to their air conditioned ‘resort’ where you don’t even have to lift a finger or cook a meal.

      • Matt Warshaw

        the sport was more interesting when it was difficult. No leashes, but also no approval from the rest of the world. Stick with it past the age of 18, and you were making a statement.

        • freerider

          Even in the 60s (no real wet suits–and no leashes) and 70s (and yes, like you said, no approval from the rest of society)–it was kind of looked on as a losers past time–beach bums and druggies.. But you knew the people surfing back then were just doing it for the love and stoke of it….

  • JSC

    Great stuff – thanks Anna and Matt!

  • Jay Bloomquist

    He man aroma

  • Julio Adler

    Thank you!