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6/27/17

Yesterday I reread William Finnegan’s 2006 “Blank Monday” article for the New Yorker, all about Grubby Clark and the fabled Clark Foam implosion. So good. I’d nearly forgotten about the “Blank Monday” piece; it was like finding a 7,000-word chunk of Pulitzer under the couch cushion. One of the things Finnegan does incredibly well is illustrate, […]

6/14/17

Encyclopedia of Surfing, here on the site itself but also on Facebook, has attracted some whip-smart and wicked funny commentators, and none more so than a California woman named Aviva Rosenthal. She’s got an amazing range of knowledge, high to low, and 10 fingers that are as quick as they are sharp on the keyboard. Doesn’t […]

6/09/17

This was filmed on the beach at Malibu in 1986. Not a good decade for Mike Hynson. There are those among us, however, who can wake up in the gutter, step to the sidewalk, throw on a pair of shades, and start beaming out charisma in a 15-mile radius. Hynson’s one of those guys. Keith Richards meets Joe Namath […]

6/08/17

Just posted the Perfect Wave page on Encyclopedia, which really was just an excuse to get back to video making. And oh this clip was so much fun to assemble. Magic in fact. Thank you Bruce Brown. Thank you First Point. Thank you rivermouths and sandbars and reefs and coastal geology in general.

6/05/17

At 28, Reno Abellira is physically much the same as the serious teenager who crouched low and drew long lines off the bottom in 1968, at the World Contest in Puerto Rico, when surfing’s mainstream was off on a different  tangent. His surfing is simple, concise and direct; and if he no longer stands out […]

6/02/17

The man knew how to have a good time. I appreciate the wetsuits, but right now I’m warmed up just watching Jack enjoying himself so completely. A long, exciting, creative life. Raise your glass to Jack O’Neill.

6/02/17

I arrived in San  Francisco in early 1991 and didn’t know a soul except Mark Renneker, aka Jesus of Taraval, and a nice but droning surfboard fetishist named George Orbelian, neither of whom were going to take me to the clubs, get me drunk, get me laid. Fortunately a pal of a pal introduced me to a trio of […]

5/28/17

The story I heard about Pacific Vibrations goes something like this. John Severson wanted to make one last magnum opus surf movie, then tap out. Sell SURFER, train his replacement, pack his boards and family, and move to Maui. That’s exactly how it happened. Incredible career, as profitable as it was creative, not overly long, capped off […]

5/24/17

Above the Roar is up, and dammit that is the last one. For those keeping score, we’re now at three: Encyclopedia of Surfing, History of Surfing, Above the Roar. I will craft and sculpt this trio of websites till Saint Peter Ubers me up to the pearly gates, hopefully after one last good beachbreak session with my as-yet-unborn […]

5/19/17

To the best of my knowledge, this is the complete eight-man list of the surfers who rode Waimea on November 5 or 7 (the exact date is unclear), 1957. In no particular order . . . GREG NOLL Mea culpa #1. Noll was 20 the day Waimea was busted, not 19, as I reported earlier this week. […]

5/18/17

Two weeks ago I gushed forth on how Riding Giants tweaked my whole understanding about how to present surf history. Dress it up, I said. Make it dance and sparkle—history need not be as dull and lifeless as a Mike Pence tailgate party. On the other hand, a little sparkle goes a long way. Dance with the […]

5/15/17

Surfer and boardmaker Dick Catri of Miami Beach, Florida, died on May 14, after a series of strokes. He was 79. Catri was sometimes called “the Godfather of East Coast Surfing”—with all that implied. He was smart and funny and energetic, hugely likable, and had about him a whiff of danger. As a child, Catri wanted to […]

5/10/17

Jose Angel was 43 when he died while free diving for black coral, maybe a suicide, maybe not, it’s a mystery gone cold. No goodbye note. No body, for that matter. Jose rolled off the edge of the boat holding a big rock to his chest to speed his descent, went past 300′ and never came up. That […]

5/01/17

Drew Kampion, The New Yorker, Riding Giants. Three wonderful things, listed chronologically, to guide my journey to this broke-ass yet weirdly elevated career stage. Throughout the 1980s, my muse, my creative North Star, was to try and be as smart and funny as Kampion was during his ’69-’70 SURFER heyday. My 1991 New Yorker subscription, unbroken to this day, lifted me dripping and […]

4/25/17

American surfers of a certain age, a lot of them, I’m guessing a majority, will say that 1972’s Five Summer Stories is the best surf movie ever made. I will smile and nod in apparent agreement before replying, “Nay, sir! Twas Going Surfin’!” But it is the gentlest of rebukes. The two films are almost twins. Greg MacGillivray and Jim Freeman made Five Summer Stories,...

4/19/17

Yes, output on Encyclopedia and History has slacked off a little the past few weeks. But only cause I’m thrashing away on the next (and, God willing, final) website: Above the Roar. Surf Q&A, and nothing but. Like Andy Warhol’s Interview magazine, but wetter and saltier. Hundreds of surfer interviews. I’ve been gathering these gems for years, decades. Duke and Blake and […]

4/11/17

I’m kidding. Sort of. It wasn’t Greg Noll alone who convinced Australian surfers to quit riding for Queen and clubhouse in 1956, and just do it for their own selfish enjoyment. No, peel it back further and I think what this great protean moment in surf history comes down to is how you look while carrying your craft across the beach. It’s like the […]

4/04/17

It felt like I needed permission somehow to make this little Latin-flavored throwaway video, set in fabled old Club Waikiki, on the beachfront of Lima, Peru, during the 1965 World Surfing Championships. Club Waikiki, when it finds its way into the better, more righteous area of my head, makes me squirm. A surfing country club, for God’s sake. […]

3/24/17

Buzzy Trent Week is coming to an end—but we’ve saved the best for last! Click forth for a Trent remix built from the ground up with A-grade Bud Browne film stock. Browne, the sainted Father of the Surf Movie, was the only guy to capture Trent in full charismatic glory, and oh just feast your eyes—Buzzy rubbing those cobblestone abs, […]

3/09/17

Phil Edwards, patron saint of power surfing, was the last of the greats to switch from balsa to poly. He didn’t like the smell of foam, didn’t like industrial blank-blowing process, and especially didn’t like the way the new boards felt underfoot. “Good on wood, spastic on plastic,” as Edwards liked to say. In 1957 or ’58, […]

2/28/17

Most of us think pro surfing began in 1976, when the IPS jumped off Randy Rarick’s kitchen table and took its first wobbly steps into the world. Or maybe a few years earlier, with the debut Smirnoff Pro-Am. But pro surfing goes further back. Jantzen paid Ricky Grigg $2,000 in 1964 to wear their not-very-surfy gear. New world champ […]

2/14/17

The vertigo is now upon me, having just pulled focus from the beer-scented louche magnificence of Terry “Tubesteak” Tracy to the hardcore surf jockism of Fred Hemmings. But that’s what we surf history professionals train for. Stick and move. Stories come at you from every direction. Be ready. That’s just Surf Historian 101. I’ve always had mixed […]

2/13/17

Part Three of a three-piece article published by SURFER in November, 1969. John Scott, a Santa Cruz surfer and photographer, wrote in opposition to professional surfing. And threw in a protest poem for good measure. See also “Pro Surfing is White!” by Fred Hemmings, and “Pro Surfing is Gray!” by Jock Sutherland.  *  *  * By now, […]

2/13/17

Part Two of a three-piece article published by SURFER in November, 1969. Jock Sutherland, that year’s SURFER Poll winner, had some doubts about how professional surfing might affect the nature of the sport, but ultimately decided it was worth pursing. See also “Pro Surfing is White!” by Fred Hemmings, and “Pro Surfing is Black!” by John Scott.  * […]

2/13/17

Part One of a three-piece article published by SURFER in November, 1969. Fred Hemmings, reigning world champion and soon-to-be founder of the world tour, wrote in support of professional surfing. See also “Pro Surfing is Black!” by John Scott, and “Pro Surfing is Gray!” by Jock Sutherland.  *  *  * Surfing needs professionalism! The most important […]

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