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Kaio, Kealoha


Quiet Hawaiian big-wave surfer rider from Laie, Oahu; third-place finisher in the 1963 Makaha International contest. Kaio (born: 1935) didn't begin surfing until 1956 at age 21, on an old discarded redwood plank. "I was just out of the military," Kaio later told surf writer Nick Carroll, "diving, fishing, drinking, and smoking. Surfing cleaned me up."

Just two years later, Kaio was riding Sunset Beach, the big-wave capital of Oahu's North Shore, and by 1963, with just five years of experienc...