×
Login

violence and surfing


Surfing has justly been described as meditative, even spiritual, but it also has a violent streak that goes back to the sport's very origins. Hawaiian legend tells of a handsome surfer at Waikiki who was nearly executed after riding the same wave as a high-ranking chieftess. In another incident, a prince whose board glanced off another rider during a surfing competition was later eviscerated on a stone alter as punishment.

Surfing violence in modern times almost always has been the result of...